Valencia

Valencia Day 1:

            Train to from Madrid to Valencia was easy, though we were immediately struck by the humidity of the station as we entered the city. We were picked up from the train station by Lynn’s friend Carmen. She conveniently drives a bright orange Jeep (the only one in Valencia of its type we are convinced) so upon exiting the train station she was easy to spot! This train to homestay transportation was ideal, as our hike with packs in the heat would have been treacherous. After some much needed support from a local on the street we found our way to the homestay. (My bad dropping the ball on a missed email with very detailed directions as to how to enter the homestay building.)

Roberto runs the homestay with his Chinese girlfriend. They met backpacking in the Philippines and since then have traveled the world together and enjoy meeting and hosting backpackers in their city. He sat us down for our check in and proceeded to share an entire map of Valencia with pin drops in all of the best restaurants, sights and transportation pick-ups. It was amazing! As a traveler, he knows exactly what travelers need. We were ready to take on this new city.

Valencia Day 2: 

One of the reasons I was excited to explore Valencia is it has the city center but within walking distance of beaches and foothills. Our homestay is also within the university district so there were lots of young folks, markets open late and easy access to transportation. Carmen so generously picked us up and drove us to her favorite beach. We had no idea we were being shown the poshest part of the beach town. The water was the perfect coolness for Brandt but still warm enough for this goose-bump prone chica to take a dip. After a few dips and reapplication of sunscreen we met Carmen for lunch of Paella (a traditional Spanish rice dish that originated in Valencia). She was so generous to treat us, and even explained the Spanish way of ordering iced coffee. Up until then all of the coffee being served had been café con leche (or hot coffee with milk). All of my ice coffee orders had been unsuccessful (they serve cold coffee with ice cream instead of ice.) Turns out I was ordering it wrong the whole time. Instead I needed to order café del tiempo, which ended up being literally of shot of espresso over a cup with 1 single ice cube. J You take what you can get. 

Nothing like cafe con leche to prep for a day at the hot beach 

Carmen and GIANT paella! 

Valencia Day 3: 

Carmen picked us up and brought us to the city center. We escaped the tourist attention walking around with such a Valencia local.  She explained the layout of the city. It is rich with history but also has sections on the cutting edge of modern architecture. Divided in half with a river running through it, there’s a modern side that meets the historic. It feels abrupt, but adds so much character. The city center prides the Queen’s plaza, cobblestone, and old famous markets with delicious fresh fruit. We felt like celebrities walking with Carmen as she ran into people she knew all around town. She also directed us to the best spot to try horchata (also originating in Valencia) and fartons (traditional pastry to be dipped in horchata).

Outside the Mercat (mercado) 

We have seen so many street performers but this one really caught Brandt's eye for creativity (and color of course). He got a wink from the picture frame woman after dropping a Euro on her vase. 

Horchata and Farton 

After breakfast we headed back to the beach. It was a long hot walk…and we made a pact to never do it in the heat of the day again. On the way home we stopped at the local market to pick up dinner makings for the evening and low and behold Brandt stumbled upon his dream machine… a fresh squeeze orange juice dispenser. Right there in the middle of the supermarket was a self-serve fresh squeeze juicer and bottles made with the famously delicious Valencia oranges! Ahhhhh done and done Valencia had become a hit! We stocked up on OJ every day from here on out and was sure we had a bottle for our train ride out.

...like a kid in a candy store!

Valencia Day 4: Fuente de los Baños en Montanejos

            This was our outdoor, adventure day! We’d booked a hot springs tour a month out to make sure we at least made it out of the city once. Daniel, our friendly, internationally raised tour guide picked us up from our homestay and after collecting our tour group we drove out of the city. We stopped for lunch at Montanejos, a small village in the foothills and ate a feast! This was our first experience with patatas bravas (one of our favorite traditional Spanish tapas dish with potato wedges, garlic mayo and hot sauce.) While we continued ordering this dish the rest of our trip, none of them ever came close to being as tasty as this first one in Montanejos. Next, our bus kept climbing until it reached the hot springs (baños calientes, hot baths as they call them.) We acclimated to the chilly water and swam our way through the rock walls, climbed up into some caves, and jumped off a few boulders. It was super refreshing and so nice to be out of the crazy city life.

sunscreen caked beard 

            We have learned on this trip that 1. Brandt is an incredible navigator and has pigeon like senses in finding his way home but also 2. We are not city people….heat and crowds, and crazy bus streets are not our jam. So being up and away from it all for the day was refreshing! On our way home, we stopped to admire the swimming hole and dam. Man oh man this was a powerful dam! (see pics) As our group looked out over the swimming hole, our guide pulled out some chocolates and sparkling cider as there were many celebrations in order (graduations, pregnancies, marriages, and family reunions.) Thanks to Danny and Valtournative Tours we had an amazing day!

Dinner that night consisted of homemade caprese sandwiches,
orange juice and sunset watching on the deck of our homestay. Ahhh life is
good. 

Valencia Day 5 and 6: Bike Rental and Port Saplaya

After days of walking and walking and walking we decided to rent bikes these last two days. As we had learned from Danny, our tour guide, the mayor of Valencia is an avid biker and has added amazing bike paths throughout the entire city. We’d love to see Seattle take this on. We were so much more efficient, not to mention the breeze you get in the heat of the day when you’re riding a bike. Roberto, our homestay host, told us about a secret hidden beach town area, only really known to local. So, as was directed, once we biked to the popular local beach we continued along the back path, over a sketchy bridge, past what looked like the trailer park of Valencia and then found ourselves entering the beautiful OZ of the town. We had arrived in Port Saplaya. No crowds, beachfront restaurants, and residential buildings over the water in a Venice like fashion. Most of the condos were only accessible via boat. We loved our time here, walking on the docks of the city envisioning owning a condo overlooking this beautiful spot! Ahh we were so grateful to be out of the hustle and bustle of the tourist beach life. We rented bikes again the next day and biked the whole river path and made our way to the modern center of the city. It had a Seattle Center, EMP type feel, with a giant reflection pond, Science center and live music in the courtyard.

Port Saplaya, Valencia's Venice 

The modern center 

Center of Sciences

...and more Orange Juice! 

Aside from the unbearable humidity and lack of AC in our homestay, Valencia was our favorite spot! We loved the laid back lifestyle, city access yet city escape potential as well…not to mention the fresh squeezed orange juice! Off to Barcelona! (stay tuned…I am a whole city behind in my posts).